Why Vegan leather + my favourite brands

When I tell people I don't wear leather, the first thing they do is look at my shoes and bag, asking, 'Are those vegan?'. Most look surprised when I say yes.

When people think of vegan shoes and bags, they imagine something very alternative-looking or something made out of plastic. But thankfully, that is not the case, and it hasn't been for decades. Today, many vegan brands (and some non-vegan brands with a vegan line, such as Adidas, Veja, and many more) offer stylish bags, trendy trainers, dressy shoes, and biker boots. For a while now, vegan shoes and bags, such as those designed by Stella McCartney, can also be seen on fashion show runways.

Fashion show runways, or what is happening outside, prompted this post. As the Fashion Weeks are kicking off in Europe's fashion capitals, animal rights and sustainability activists are staging ever more creative protests against using materials such as fur, leather, and cashmere. They are trying to raise awareness of the unsustainable and often cruel practices used to make these materials, as most people are uninformed about these issues. This text is my contribution, focusing on the leather.

But why? Isn't leather a byproduct of the meat industry? 

While a lot of leather is a byproduct of the meat industry, this is not always the case. Certainly not for exotic animal leather such as alligator, zebra, or snake; these animals are not killed for food but for their skin. Another example is soft leather, which comes from baby calves, often killed solely for their skin. Most leather comes from China and India, countries with non-existent animal welfare regulations. China is the leading global producer of leather, and there have been investigations into dogs and cats killed for their skin, deliberately mislabeled, and sold as something else. 

Furthermore, leather production involves tons of polluting chemicals, endangering people who work in those facilities and polluting the planet. It uses a lot of water, much more than the alternatives. If you want to know more about the environmental hazards of leather production, here's a good article from Peta

Types of vegan leather 

Another common misconception is that vegan leather is made from synthetic materials. 'I'm sure your skin cannot breathe in those', I was told once. Or 'Are they then made out of plastic?' Ahhh, sometimes you just need to inhale and exhale before you explain to people we don't live in a either/or black-and-white world and welcome them in the 21st century. While sometimes shoes are made from recycled plastic bottles (like my new Adidas xParley Stan Smiths), which is an effort to recycle and use plastic waste, most vegan leather shoes are made from plant waste. Most leather alternative manufacturers today are concerned with creating a cruelty-free, breathable, durable, ecological, and sustainable product. And I can vouch for durability - vegan leather bags and shoes I've had for years still look almost brand new. Not all alternative leathers are also eco-friendly, but here is a list of those that are. 

IMAGE: UNsplash

Piñatex - pineapple leather 

Piñatex is vegan leather made out of fibre from the waste leaves of pineapple plants, so the raw material requires no additional environmental resources to produce. It was developed in the 1990s by Dr. Carmen Hijosa, whose goal was to bridge the gap between leather and petroleum-based leather alternatives.

Mylo - Mushroom leather 

Mylo is made from mycelium, the root-like system of mushrooms. The mycelium used to make Mylo is grown in less than two weeks inside a state-of-the-art vertical farming facility powered by 100% renewable electricity.

Vegea - grape leather 

Made in Italy using the waste from the wine-making process, such as grape skins, stalks and seeds left over, Vegea is another plant-based leather alternative. I love that the name comes from the combination of VEG (Vegan) and GEA (Mother Earth), which speaks to the founders' intention. 

Desserto - cactus leather 

Mexico-based company creating the world's first material made of Nopal cactus, also known as the prickly pear. The cacti are grown on a ranch in Mexico on a 14-acre cactus farm, which is fully organic and absorbs 8,100 tons of CO2 each year, as cactus is a natural carbon sink.

My favourite (vegan leather) fashion brands

For years, I have only been shopping European brands to avoid the carbon footprint of shipping something across the globe, so these are European brands with production in Europe. Some are from the UK but have their EU stores so you don't need to worry about customs if you are in the EU. 

Will's Vegan

I love Will's for their dressy shoes, such as in the photos below, my latest acquisition. I also love their attention to detail - from the packaging to carbon-neutral delivery. London-based company with an EU shop, their shoes are made in Italy and Portugal. I love that they have return-to-recycle service, so your old shoes don't end up in a landfill. They also sell vegan bags, accessories and clothing.

Matt & Nat

I love their wallets and bags. They are beautiful, trendy, and so durable; none of my leather bags ever stood the test of time as my first Matt & Nat bag I bought almost a decade ago. They also sell clothing, footwear and accessories. UK-based, with an EU shop (phew).

Nae Vegan

Nae is a Portuguese brand I discovered in Lisbon years ago, even before I moved to Portugal. I love that now they have a shop in Chiado, and I can try things on - the downside of internet shopping is that you never know if something will fit well. I like their sandals and casual shoes.

Good Guys Don't Wear Leather (Now Good Guys Go Vegan)

Good Guys is a French brand I discovered when looking for simple white sneakers that are now, allegedly, Emma Watson's favourites;). Another fun fact - Ryan Gosling asked for vegan cowboy boots for the Barbie movie and wore the ones made by Good Guys. So, if you need a nice pair of cowboy boots, Good Guys make very cool ones;).

Bottom line

Buying sustainable and cruelty-free footwear, accessories, and clothes is not only a more conscious choice, but it can also be cool and chic. Every time we buy something, we support a business, and I prefer to support companies that are a part of the solution and not a part of the problem. This doesn’t mean you should never buy leather shoes again. It’s more about sometimes choosing alternatives.

Our favourite vegan restaurants in Lisbon

For a relatively small city, Lisbon has many vegan restaurants, as well as a few vegetarian ones offering easy vegan options. Not to mention that almost all restaurants have at least a few vegan options on the menu. But, we do have our favourites and one of them is - 26 vegan food project.

I love Lisbon, and I only realised how much after we moved to the south of Portugal. I am not sure I will ever be able to live in the city full-time again; I love being closer to nature, but I still need a few days of city vibe once in a while. And Lisbon has a great vibe as well as another essential in my book - many vegan restaurants (almost as many as London, for example, which is impressive considering that London is probably ten times bigger). Lisbon has everything - from vegan sushi and pizza to a fine dining experience. We have been to most of the vegan and vegetarian Lisbon restaurants, and I will write about some of them, starting with our favourite - 26 - Vegan Food Project (formerly AO26).

The restaurant used to be in a smaller space not far from where it is now, but it recently moved to a larger space with a small garden in the heart of Chiado. It offers typical Portuguese dishes in a plant-based version, making it a great option for a meal with non-vegan family and friends, as well as vegan tourists curious to taste (as much as possible) local favourites. We love (and order every time!) the selection of Portuguese starters. The mains are excellent, and the deserts heavenly. Plus, they are dog-friendly, so Seeta always gets to tag along.

You need to book a table as they are always full, as are most of the other good vegan spots. This makes me so happy and hopeful that the world is slowly changing;).

Organic and local matters!

Organic food is available in almost every supermarket today. However, I still prefer to buy my veggies and fruit at Farmer's Markets, where the produce is local, fresh, and much more sustainable.

For many years now, I try to only buy organic, locally-produced food, NOT in plastic packaging, which is usually the case with organic veggies and fruit, even when local, found in supermarkets. Organic because it's healthier, of course, and local because it's more sustainable as well as supportive of local producers. Plastic is self-explanatory. If the avocado had to fly from Brazil to get to me, plus it's packaged in plastic, I prefer to skip it. However, it's not always easy or convenient to do so, but it's also not impossible; it just takes a bit of planning.

The problem arises when you move a lot, as I do. I had a pretty good setup in Croatia, but when I moved to Portugal, it wasn't easy. So I rented a house on a large plot of land and started growing my own veggies. I started small and expanded the following year. I would do our monthly grocery shopping in a zero-waste shop in Lisbon. We composted and reduced our waste drastically. I was happy and proud of the sustainable life we built. And then everything changed - again. My partner received a job offer he couldn't refuse, and we had to pack up and leave in a matter of weeks. I took some tomato and pepper plants with us, but I had to leave my garden behind together with the life we created. We moved to the Algarve, south of Portugal, and it was, as always is, an adjustment. But, one of the most important things for me was finding a good place to go grocery shopping, and I am happy to have found an organic farmers market very close to home. I just wish I had found it sooner. It sells local veggies and fruits, including avocado, mango and lime, that grow in the Algarve due to the warm climate, so that's a big plus. It is set up only once a week, so I need to plan accordingly, but it's worth it. If you are in the Almancil area, you can check out the organic market every Wednesday in Quinta de Calma and every Thursday in Naturalgarve garden centre.

Why Organic?

My grandma had a beautiful garden and grew organic veggies. This means she never used synthetic fertilisers, pesticides, GMO seeds etc. When I once told her her veggies were organic, she said they are just veggies, as they always were. Nothing special about them, she said laughing, no need for a new, fancy name; the other kind should have a different name. Ain't this the truth? My grandma is a wise woman. Imagine if instead of having to choose between "fruit and veggies" and "organic fruit and veggies" in the supermarket, you would have a choice of "fruit and veggies" and "toxic fruit and veggies". I wonder what would most people choose if the wording was different and people were made more aware of what they are buying.

If you think I am exaggerating, read on. According to the EPA (American Environmental Protection Agency), pesticides used in conventional farming can impact the nervous system, irritate the eyes and skin, interfere with the body's hormonal systems, and cause cancer. And if you believe that these things must be regulated by government agencies, how about this - it took 15 years of effort by environmental groups to ban Chlorpyrifos, a dangerous pesticide often used on nut and fruit trees as well as veggies such as broccoli and cauliflower, to be banned in the US (banned in 2022) and the EU (banned in 2020). I wonder how many others are still out there, not as dangerous perhaps, but still poisoning our food. At the end of this text you can find an interesting video concerning citrus fruits.

The dirty dozen and the clean fifteen

The Environmental Working Group (EWG) annually publishes a Shopper's Guide to Pesticides in Produce together with their dirty dozen and the clean fifteen list. The dirty dozen is a list of fruit and veggies containing the most harmful pesticides, while the clean fifteen the least. If you can't afford to buy only organic, this is a good list to have. Strawberries are almost always at the top of the list. I dislike strawberries and thought I was allergic to them since I had an allergic reaction when I was a kid. Turns out I am not. The reaction was possibly caused by the pesticides.

(Illustration source: EWG)

Why local?

Buying local is much more sustainable than buying fruit and veg that need to travel far to get to your supermarket. Also, they might come from countries that don’t have EU regulations regarding farming. Buying local also means buying seasonal, which is both healthier and budget friendly, as prices of produce drop when there is an abundance. And last but not least, buying local supports small local businesses and families instead of giant conglomerates which are a part of the problem (pollution, toxic food etc).

Conclusion

Buy organic as often as possible, as conventional and convenient fruits and vegetables often contain an unhealthy amount of pesticides and other toxic materials. This is especially true for babies, children and pregnant women. Buying locally can sometimes be less convenient, but it is far healthier and more sustainable.


Reference list

EWG https://www.ewg.org/foodnews/
Gaylord A et al. (2020) “Trends in neurodevelopmental disability burden due to early life chemical exposure in the USA from 2001 to 2016: A population-based disease burden and cost analysis.” Molecular and Cellular Endocrinology. DOI: 10.1016/j.mce.2019.110666. PMID: 31952890; PMCID: PMC7073246.
Stoker, T. et al. (2010) Pesticides as endocrine-disrupting chemicals. 3rd, Chapter 18, Robert Krieger (ed.), Hayes Handbook of Pesticide Toxicology (new edition). Academic Press Incorporated
ToxFAQs™ for Chlorpyrifos https://wwwn.cdc.gov/TSP/ToxFAQs/ToxFAQsDetails.aspx?faqid=494&toxid=88

My Plant-based Milk maker

Yes, of course you can make plant-based milk using your blender; I did it for years. But the plant-based milk maker is so much more convenient, and I am very happy with ours.

We use a lot of milk in our household, almost a litre a day. If we were to buy store-bought, that would be a lot of waste we are trying to avoid, plus the better ones (unsweetened, organic) are pricy with low nut content and a few additives. So, I used to make milk using my blender, but it was time-consuming, and the milk never turned out as good as store-bought, so I decided to buy a milk maker. Preferably one made in Europe and doesn't need to be shipped from the other side of the world. This narrowed my results quite a bit.

I ended up buying Klarstein's Marcia plant-based milk maker (aka Marcie), and we are very happy with it. She's a bit noisy but makes creamy warm milk and has a self-cleaning function which is definitely a plus. My favourite is cashew milk, but we also make almond and occasionally soy. Marcie also has other programmes; she can also make soup, for example.

Btw, this is not an ad, I get nothing from posting this. I just hope to help someone looking for a good milk maker made in the EU. Also, the more we turn to home-made foodstuff such as plant-based milk, the less waste we’ll create.